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词汇分类
将经线(或纬线)分成两组或更多组,使用夹纬inner (main) weft及明纬outer (binding) weft或夹经inner warp及明经outer warp)将其中一组现于织物正面显花而其余沉于背面的组织,特指暗夹型重组织。其分类为:
1.当经线显花时为经重组织warp-faced compound,是中国传统典型的织锦组织,建议使用jin-silk特指此类织锦,还可细分为:
a.平纹经重warp-faced compound tabby,出现于西周,流行于战国秦汉时期;
b.绒圈经重 looped warp-faced compound tabby,在西汉前后流行;
c.斜纹经重warp-faced compound twill,于隋到初唐时取代平纹经重而流行。
2.当纬线显花时为纬重组织weft-faced compound,是北朝至唐接受西方纺织技术影响的产物。可分为:
a.平纹纬重weft-faced compound tabby,又称taquete,最早出现于中西亚地区;
b.斜纹纬重weft-faced compound twill,又称samite,先出现于中亚地区,中国始用于唐代;
c.半明型斜纹纬重compound twill weft-faced on both sides,于晚唐出现,流行于辽代,可称辽式织锦Liao samite;
d.半明型缎纹纬重compound satin weft-faced on both sides,仅见于辽代,可称缎纹纬锦Satin samite;
e.妆花纬锦brocaded compound twill/satin,仅见于辽代;
f.浮纹纬锦compound twill/satin with floats,仅见于辽代。

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