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| 30. 1Polychrome woven silk Either the warp or the weft in double-faced weave (shuangmianzuzhi) is composed of two complementary patterning series, usually in different colours, to form a same pattern but alternated colours on the two sides (see CIETA 1964). Based on different weave structures, it could be double-faced tabby (shuangmianjuan), double-faced twill (shuang mianling) and double-faced satin (shuangmianduan) etc. In early China, 1:1 compound weaves of two colours could be considered as a type of double-faced weave. In the Ming dynasty, double-faced tabby with one series of warp was used. 31. 1Compound weave/jin-silk In Chinese, Jin is generally used to represent a polychrome textile, but there is no equivalent term in English. According to the structure, there is 1. compound weave (anjiaxingchongzuzhi), including warp-faced compound tabby which matches the original meaning for jin; 2. double weave (shuangcengzuzhi); 3. lampas weave (tejiezingzuzhi). Compound weave (anjiaxingchongzuzhi) is specifically used to describe a weave in which the weft or warp (patterning warp/weft, wenjing/wenwei) is divided into two or more series, one of which appears on the face while the other or others appear on the reverse, while two other sets of warp or weft (inner warp/weft, jiajing/wei and outer warp/weft, mingjing/wei) are woven together (see CIETA 1964). The categories are:
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